La Poja, made from a hilltop vineyard in Valpolicella planted exclusively with a relatively unknown grape called Corvia Veronese, is believed to be the first wine totally vinified with this varietal. The wine spends 18 months in small French oak casks. It possesses the structure of a Sangiovese, as well as the sweetness and ripeness of Pinot Noir. It exhibits rich fruit, medium body, and admirable persistence and length on the palate, without being heavy. The 1991 and 1990 have more similarities than differences. The 1990 exhibits more intensity and ripeness, no doubt from the hotter, drier growing season. While I felt these wines tasted like a hypothetical blend of Sangiovese and Pinot Noir, Leonardo LoCascio claims they taste like a blend of Sangiovese and Syrah. However, the bottom line is that they are very fine, rich, complex wines that merit serious attention. Unfortunately, only 1000 cases were produced in each vintage.Leonardo Lo Cascio believes that in 1996, Valpolicella is in the same position Tuscany was 15-20 years ago. A revolution in quality is just beginning, as the multitude of problems that have emanated from bad viticultural practices, over-production, and sloppy winemaking are increasingly becoming things of the past. Certainly these efforts from Allegrini, a winery whose previous efforts have left me unimpressed, suggest a higher level of quality than I have witnessed.Most Americans think of Valpolicella as an industrial product of northeast Italy with a faint ruby color, little fruit, and a thin, sharp personality. And why shouldn't they? The vast majority of Valpolicella available on these shores is textbook garbage. Tasting these Valpolicellas brings to mind one of the great producers of the region, Quintarelli. Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869
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