Leather and game in the nose of Choppin’s 2007 Beaune Cent Vignes reminds me of the corresponding 2008, though there is undeniable fruit – of a stewed rhubarb and plum sort – on the palate. Alkaline and black tea notes as well as a satisfying salinity add interest in the persistently tannic finish. I would drink this over the next couple of years, even though – as with many 2007s – I would be happy if it made a liar of me, especially since the track records for “off” vintages at this estate as well as specifically for Cent Vignes (normally the first of their wines to really open-up) go back a long way. A bottle that had been open for a day showed its tannin more obviously.
Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry was among those growers to report that more rigorous sorting was required for his 2008 fruit than had been needed the previous vintage. I tasted his 2008s from tank, where they were spending a bit longer than usual, in order to gas-out after very late malos.
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