Choppin’s 2005 Beaune Cent Vignes – like all the this year’s Morot collection, incidentally, very dark in color – leads with black cherry, black tea and moss aromatics, comes onto the palate forceful and firm, even a bit unyielding, and then lacks a bit for juiciness or complexity in the finish, where faintly dry tannins and wood are in evidence. This unusually big-boned, darkly-inflected and concentrated variation on Cent Vignes is oddly unconvincing today, but that could well be a function of its recent bottling.
Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry reports that vine stress was becoming an issue in mid-September, so he picked his crop in just a few days. And speaking of haste, new stainless steel fermenters that replace the old wooden uprights here this year permitted Choppin to assemble and bottle all of his wines at nearly the same time, with the result that those I tasted had all either just been bottled or just prepped for imminent bottling. Around 50% new wood was employed, regardless of appellation, with the result that some wines showed overt oakiness and some did not.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083