Domaine Michel Lafarge Clos des Aigrots Blanc, Beaune Premier Cru, France

拉法熱莊園愛格羅特（伯恩一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：1307

The 2012 Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots Blanc is a 0.89-hectare parcel adjacent to Clos des Mouches, three-quarters planted with Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay. It has a very attractive bouquet with scents of dried pineapple, almond and honeysuckle that is delicate but refined. The palate is light on its feet with well-judged acidity. It has a lovely build in the mouth and the finish is very harmonious and complex, showing lovely honeyed, spicy notes. This comes highly recommended. I visited Domaine Michel Lafarge, tucked away in the nooks and crannies of Volnay village, where winemaker Frédéric Lafarge, Michel’s son who has worked at the domaine since 1978, escorted me through his cramped 13th-century arched cellars that are covered head to toe in thick black mold. You could imagine a witches’ coven in a dark corner. Instead, the only thing being conjured up here is magical wine. In any case, space is not so much of an issue these days since Frédéric told me that he lost 80% of the biodynamically cultivated crop in 2012 that affected all his parcels. Nevertheless, the show must go on and Frédéric seemed sanguine about the travails. Ever a thoughtful, softly spoken gentleman, I can imagine that he would take it in his stride, with recourse to his father if necessary. He commenced picking on September 20, but in earnest from September 24. The fruit is destemmed and undergoes natural ferment with prudent pigéage. These were generally light and tensile, predominantly Volnay wines surfeit with minerality and poise, the prudent use of oak (around 15% maximum) allowing the individual terroirs to be expressed articulately. They will provide pleasurable early drinking, yet Lafarge’s wines tend to be deceptively long lived if you can manage to track them down. Importer: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640