The 1992 Montrachet Grand Cru from Marquis de Laguiche is clearly in the middle of its drinking plateau. Here with two decades on the clock, it has an attractive bouquet that offers subtle glimpses of orange blossom, citrus peel, pear drop and white peach aromas, although it does not possess the delineation of the '11 tasted alongside. The palate is slightly viscous on the entry, intimating that there might have been a little botrytis in the vineyard. It is a powerful Montrachet, a white Burgundy of sheer dimension, rather than tension or sophistication; a Montrachet that demands to be admired. While it is a great wine, it demonstrates how far this grand cru has come in the intervening period.
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