A perfumed, fragrant, medium-bodied wine, this soft 1998 Valpolicella is redolent with black cherry fruit and spice. Cleanly made, with an attractive, open-knit texture, this effort will have many admirers. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620