From old vines near the Morgeot Abbey, Colin's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte smells of clover and honeysuckle with fusil and chalky adjuncts; is relatively firm but juicy; and persists with inner-mouth floral perfume, and bitter, tart pit fruits accompanied by their pits. This is another case of an attractively lean, fascinatingly flavorful Colin wine that may well show a more generous side in another year or two but will in any event justify following for a half dozen or more among those to whom its style appeals. Those looking for lushness, low-tones, or overt richness will be less drawn to it now but should consider revisiting.
Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.)
Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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