Representing a much smaller lot than their village Puligny, and assembled from Les Vergers and other high-altitude sites just over 50% of the total representing de-classified premier cru, the Jadot 2006 Chassagne-Montrachet displays peppermint, brown spices, honey, and vanilla pitted against citrus, peach, and quince whose invigoratingly tart freshness seems atypical for the vintage. Then again, one has to factor in malic acid at this address. This displays admirable clarity and refreshment, lift and elegance, as well as a shimmering interplay of citrus, pit fruits, and mineral notes worthy of a great Riesling. It should be a delight over at least the next 4-6 years.
The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)
Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300
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