Alberto Graci has created a gorgeous wine—the best I have yet tasted from his winery—in the form of the 2014 Quota 1000 Barbabecchi. This wine represents many of the ideals that I would imagine finding if I were in front of the archetypal Etna Rosso. By the way, because these vineyards are about the appellation limit of 1,000 meters above sea level, this wine is technically not in the appellation. Funny how that works out, because this wine is indeed so reflective of that specific Etna identity. I tasted this wine twice: once when I first opened the bottle and once again 12 hours later. I did this with all my top-scoring reds in this report. This vintage is powerful, tonic, dry and tart. It offers a graceful, almost fragile first impression but then delivers a song succession of berry, smoke and ash flavors that drive the very long finish.
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