Allegrini's 1993 Valpolicella La Grola is a serious, ambitiously-made, dark ruby-colored, dense wine with plenty of rich, berry fruit and crisp acidity. It would work beautifully with a rich pasta dish such as lasagna. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Leonardo Lo Cascio believes that in 1996, Valpolicella is in the same position Tuscany was 15-20 years ago. A revolution in quality is just beginning, as the multitude of problems that have emanated from bad viticultural practices, over-production, and sloppy winemaking are increasingly becoming things of the past. Certainly these efforts from Allegrini, a winery whose previous efforts have left me unimpressed, suggest a higher level of quality than I have witnessed.
Most Americans think of Valpolicella as an industrial product of northeast Italy with a faint ruby color, little fruit, and a thin, sharp personality. And why shouldn't they? The vast majority of Valpolicella available on these shores is textbook garbage. Tasting these Valpolicellas brings to mind one of the great producers of the region, Quintarelli. Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869
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