The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Vieilles Vignes – which received the same 14 months of elevage (close to 13 of them in barrel) as the estate’s single vineyard bottlings – now represents an assemblage from diverse and complimentary sites, most notably (from south to north) Pellans (adjacent to Charmes); Millerandes (a considerable distance below Poruzots); and Meix Chavaux and Vereuils (high up, in the direction of Auxey). The estate still sells their non-cru Meursault from younger vines to negociants. Linden flower, honeysuckle, fresh lime, and white peach inform a nose that could almost be that of a Riesling, and the delicacy and refinement of this wine on the palate is consistent with that impression. A subtle suggestion of creaminess, along with notes of lightly-toasted hazelnut, alkalinity, and wet stone – all of which emerge as the wine takes on air – pulls toward the classic Meursault axis. Persistent floral notes and a hint of bitter-sweet orange zest add to the allure of a refreshing and buoyant, if understated finish. To the extent that 15% new wood is evident – and I find a mere trace of resin and lanolin here – Essa’s opinion is that this should always disappear into the fabric of the wine within 2-3 years or else he has misjudged his regimen. (For the record, he rather unorthodoxly favors lightly-toasted Vosges oak barriques.) Expect this to perform well for at least 5-7 years.
Catherine and Patrick Essa’s new reception, crush, and storage facilities are now completed and they have expanded through control of significant additional acreage in Les Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or. Patrick Essa's approach (like that of his father-in-law Michel Buisson) seemed ideal for restraining any over-the-top tendencies of vintage 2006, but the 2007s here are also very successful, if slightly less obviously imposing. Readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 180 for further details on the approach taken at this under-rated estate that produces consistently age-worthy Meursault.
A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300
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