The Chassagne Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche is produced from the 1er Cru Morgeot vineyard, yet is not permitted to carry a 1er Cru designation because the Drouhins want it to bear the Laguiche name. The 1995 exhibits an unyielding but fresh and austere nose as well as deep minerally flavors complemented by anise and other spices, an oily texture, and a substantial finish. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.