Javillier rued the fact that he has so little premier cru when he dipped into thieve the solitary one-year-old piece of his 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, which comes from his diminutive 0.06-hectare parcel. It lives up to its name with an understated but charming bouquet that is very well-defined with traces of peach and rosewater. The palate is very well-balanced with a rounded, smooth, mint-tinged entry, very nicely judged acidity and a gorgeous, svelte, citrus finish with touches of apricot and mango. Divine. Patrick Javillier purchased his small (0.17-hectare) parcel of vines in Corton-Charlemagne in 1999 within the lieu-dit of “Les Pougets.” He joked that he produces around 1,050 bottles: those 50 bottles being very important.
Patrick Javillier was busy down in his Meursault winery when I called in at the property that was established by Raymond Javillier after the war, when he set about acquiring parcels of vine around the village. Yet the main focus of the business was in purchasing fruit from courtiers. Patrick himself vinified his first wine in 1974 after completing his winemaking diploma at the University of Burgundy and steadily built up a raft of long-term contracts, tending holdings through fermage agreements. Since 2008, his daughter Marion has looked after and vinified the red wines and it was clear that Patrick takes a great deal of pride in them. I have been following Javillier’s wines for a number of years now. Here is a man determined to transcend the limitations of possessing propitious terroirs, but few premier and grand cru vines. How does he overcome them? Well, simply by straightforward winemaking tenets: complete de-stemming for the reds, remaining faithful to his trusty old Vaslin press (which was recuperating in the corner after the vintage), skillful use of new oak and by assiduously blending small parcels whose final wine is often more than a sum of its parts. Patrick told me that he commenced picking on September 12 with potential alcohol levels coming in between 12.0 and 12.9 degrees. These wines often represent outstanding value and we commence with his two generic whites that offer outstanding value year after year.
Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 01 33 1 42 55 42 93
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