Knoll’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfullung – which originates in Kreutles, Loibneberg and Kellerberg – features the rhubarb and beet that are so common this vintage, along with lentil, roasted red pepper, and green herbs. At once voluminous and energetic, this wine really gains steam as it crosses the palate, exhibiting a striking depth of ore-like, pungent, peaty, peppery minerality that impinges with tactile intensity. It lacks the sweetness of fruit possessed by this year’s Schutt and Loibenberg, but sheer force may well make this (as the Knolls anticipate) the better keeper, perhaps worth holding a decade or more. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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