Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Schutt Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Smoky and crushed stone overtones along with honeysuckle and lily scent the Knoll 2010 Riesling Smaragd Schutt, whose persistent inner-mouth floral perfume is matched by diverse, subtle mineral shadings suggesting stone, iodine, and peat. White peach and lime lend irresistible juiciness to a vibrant finish of almost kaleidoscopically complex flavor interplay. This at once superbly nuanced and outgoing Riesling ought to be a joy to follow over the next ten or a dozen years. “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

This is one of the great Rieslings from the Wachau, a wonderful panoply of ripe, tropical fruit, pierced with flint, spice and minerality. It is rich and opulent, while never losing sight of the core tautness of a fine Riesling.——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 95

The Knoll 2007 Riesling Smaragd Schutt smells of tangerine, lemon oil, white peach, along with pungent suggestions of quarry dust. Glossy in texture, rich in ripe orchard fruitiness, and brightly citric, this sassy yet seductive wine finishes long on peach, nut oils, and luscious, diverse citrus, accented by cyanic peach pit, white pepper, and crushed stone. A superbly concentrated Schutt, it should merit at least 7-9 years’ cellaring. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700