Weingut Emmerich Knoll 'Vinothekfullung' Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Knoll’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfullung, the latest in his series of top-quality Gruner Veltliner “bottlings for the vinotec,” once again originates in Schutt, Loibenberg, Kellerberg and (around one-third) the best portions of Kreutles. The herbal essences of this year’s other Kreutles bottlings and the peppery, pungent minerality of Schutt and Kellerberg are evident in the nose, and then allied on the palate to a deep, malty, honeyed, nutty richness. Imposing and rich as this wine is though, it does not – at least yet – offer the dynamic complexity of the Loibenberg. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700