Weingut Emmerich Knoll 'Vinothekfullung' Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Knoll’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfullung is the latest in his series of top-quality Gruner Veltliner “bottlings for the vinotec,” in this instance composed of roughly equal parts Schutt, Loibenger, Kellerberg and Kreutles. Aromas of melon, plum and brown spices lead to a more Veltliner-typical palate featuring green beans and white pepper along with the plum and melon fruit. Firmer and sparer than is usually the case with this bottling, this medium-bodied Smaragd still stays juicy and penetrating on the finish of diverse fruits, herbs and legumes, with lingering subtle notes of white pepper, salt and wet stone. I suspect it will fill out from its additional months in barrel and, like the Loibenberg, develop nicely for at least 5-7 years in bottle. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700