An excellent bargain, the 1998 Vin de Pays rouge includes a dollop of Cinsault as well as a touch of Syrah (3%) in the blend. It reveals a deceptively light ruby color as well as a sweet nose of kirsch liqueur and strawberries. A big, sexy entry on the palate is accompanied by low acidity, fine ripeness, and a straightforward, lush finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400