A greenhouse-like profusion of flowering and leafy things issues from the glass of Bruno Colin 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly, which comes from more than 50 year old vines and acreage he still officially splits with his father (see under Michel Colin-Deleger in this report). Ripe peach and melon join in on a silken palate whose generous fruit is pitted against a firm sense of stoniness, bitter notes of fruit pit, and a refreshing citric brightness. This displays the lift, refinement, and subtle complexity which this vintage is capable of combining with generous fruit, here tinged in a long finish with flowers, herbs, and myriad things mineral. I would look for 6-8 years of pleasure from this.
Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.)
Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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