The Boillot 2006 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees (from quite old vines) unites hyacinth, ripe peach, and brown spices with a pungent, saline, almost anchovy-like sense of minerality. Smoky toasted nuts lend depth to this substantial, smoothly-textured Chassagne, which finishes with exuberant and invigorating intensity of peach skin, grapefruit with its zest, and salt, though long on nuts and chalk, too. This should stand up well to at least 4-5 years in bottle. Henri Boillot's ambitious and burgeoning negociant arm is made up in large part of many small bottling lots, representing remarkably many of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. -Precision and minerality- are words he offers to explain his intentions even in a vintage as ripe as 2006, and for the most part he walks the accompanying walk, with wines (largely assembled in tank) that showed more generously and expressively than did Boillot's estate wines on the same day.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724
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