The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru was raised entirely in new oak. It is aromatically not a million miles away from the Aux Combotte "11" tightly wound and a little timid on the nose at first and demands coaxing. It reluctantly reveals quite intense wet limestone scents that dominate over the red and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine grip on the entry with the oak lending it a smooth veneer. Harmonious and focused, it glides to quite a sinewy finish that needs a couple of years to fully integrate the wood. Very fine. Drink 2016-2028.
Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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