Like the corresponding Les Chaumees, his 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes reflects – according to Boillot – the northerly, high-altitude sector of Chassagne that is most exciting in this vintage. Refinement and a long line characterize this subtly mineral (saline, chalky, crustacean) yet at the same time effusively fruity (peach, apple, and pineapple) wine that finishes with liveliness and cut (promoted in part by a hint of rhubarb). Hints of toasted brioche and almond lend a suggestion of richness. Here too, I fancy the wine being best enjoyed over the next 3-4 years, but perhaps – as Boillot would have me believe – I am underestimating its underlying stamina. Incidentally, the 40% new wood used here is not at all detectable as such, just as I find myself not thinking about oak in tasting the other wines in this collection. As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724
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