The 2009 Roero Arneis is a winner. An expressive, floral bouquet melds into succulent peaches and apricots as this elegant, refined white opens up in the glass. Slightly bitter (but not unpleasant) notes typical of this indigenous grape linger on the finish. Giacosa’s Arneis is no longer the great value it once was, but there is little doubt it continues to deliver the goods. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2011.
These entry-level releases from Bruno Giacosa are well-made but frankly offer little to get truly excited about. Perhaps it is the preponderance of 2008s in this lineup, but I would like to think Giacosa could coax a little more magic from his smaller wines. On a more positive note, a recent comprehensive tasting of Giacosa’s Baroli and Barbareschi found the wines in great shape. I will report on that tasting on www.erobertparker.com For now, let me just say that the 2004s are living up to my lofty expectations. The 2003s are surprisingly fresh, while the 2005s show remarkable balance and classiness. Giacosa’s 2007 Barbareschi were reviewed in Issue 185. Other recent additions to our database include complete notes on the 1989s and 1990s, plus a nearly complete vertical of the icon Barolo Vigna Rionda going back to 1967.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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