The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée confirms its superb showing from barrel, mingling scents of green apple, melon and citrus with hints of pastry cream and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and satiny, it's more introverted and structured than the Caillerets, underpinned by a racy spine of acidity. The finish is long and penetrating.