A lovely nose of lily flower and lime greets you from the glass of Gambal 2007 Meursault Clos du Cromin, which goes on to offer a sherbet-like palate expression of lime - refreshing yet creamy - wreathed with continued floral perfume. White peach and intimations of chalk creep into the satisfyingly juicy generously finish of this wine that - if true to its site - is likely to take on more of a mineral dimension in another couple of years. It would be hard to imagine a more dramatic contrast with the almost confectionary, near-15% alcohol 2006, and I would have no compunction about planning to follow this for a half dozen years.
American Alex Gambal (for more of whose improbable story, readers are referred to issue 171, and for more about whose 2007 harvest, consult the introduction to this report) has established a solid reputation for his negociant firm both within France and abroad. And like so many negociants of both the bootstrapping and well-established sorts, he is seeking to benefit from every possible opportunity to access top-quality fruit or vineyards, and at the same time to purchase vineyard land I promising but less-celebrated locations. After a collection of 2006s that showed the precarious, borderline blowsy side of that vintage, it is a pleasure to report on a far more entertaining not to mention elegant crop of 2007s. Gambal was very sparing and early with batonnage, and tends to rack all of his wines out of barrel in mid-summer, bottling one portion before the next harvest, and leaving his more concentrated crus (or any that were especially late to undergo malo) in tank until February.
Various regional U.S. importers
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