Grown in a former quarry, Pethel’s 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Chaumees smells of honeysuckle and iris; deliveries fresh lime, almond, ripe white peach, and a delicious diversity of liquid floral as well as mineral notes to a sorbet-like, silken-textured palate; and finishes with a combination of tart invigoration of fruit skins; a long, shimmering exchange of citrus, floral, and savory, ineffable mineral strands; and exhilarating lift. This combines the sort of textural nuance that only white Burgundy can deliver with a Riesling-like sense of transparency and elegance it achieves only on rare occasions when a vintage like this permits. I would not hesitate to plan on holding this for at least 6-8 years, although admittedly it is too soon for such a track record to have yet accumulated around Dublere wines.
North Carolinian Blair Pethel – whose adventures in Burgundy I briefly summarized in issue 180 – did not start harvesting whites until well into the second week of September (granted, he has modest acreage) and finished by picking his Corton Charlemagne on September 17, though it seemed to surprise him to hear me call that “late.” All of his whites were bottled in March, 2009. Among the illustrations of Pethel’s quality-consciousness – besides what's obvious in the glass! – is his selection of two different tonneliers each year to supply his barrels (around one third new annually), as he gradually narrows the field and decides with whom to work on a regular basis in future. “I haven’t repeated yet,” he says, revealing his determined spirit of controlled experimentation, “but after this year 2009, I’m going to make a choice.” For a note on Pethel’s extraordinary 2007 Chablis Preuses, readers are urged to consult my report on Chablis elsewhere in this issue.
A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70; also imported by Pas Mal Selections, New York, NY; tel. (201) 567 2028 and Schneider’s of Capital Hill, Washington, DC tel. (202) 543 9300
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