Lucien Le Moine Les Genevrieres, Meursault Premier Cru, France

路西安僧侶酒莊熱那弗耶（默爾索一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：5517

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières has turned out very nicely, unfurling in the glass with notes of pear, macadamia nut, nutmeg, pastry cream and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and fine-boned, with a bright spine of acidity and a pretty core of fruit, it's a delicate, fine-boned wine that carries its élevage well.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières has a touch of licorice coming through on the nose that seems persuasively exotic for a Meursault. The palate is fresh with lime and white peach, touches of tangerine surfacing as it gently fans out on the finish. More sedate than Mounier's other Meursault '13s but undeniably long in the mouth. This is an impressive Meursault.

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières has a wonderful, vibrant nose with grilled hazelnut and smoke – a straight-down-the-line Meursault. The palate is fresh with citrus lime, orange zest and a touch of peppermint, great length as it fans out beautifully on the finish. This is a consummate Genevrières.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres has a touch more precision and mineralite on the nose compared to the Charmes. This is much more ethereal. The palate is crisp with bitter lemon and orange peel on the entry. Its energy derives from driving acidity and its vibrant nutty core. It demonstrates impressive weight on the finish with an oily texture on the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2016-2028. Prior to launching into Maison Lucien de Moine’s 2012 reds with irrepressible winemaker Mounir Saouma, we revisited some of his 2011s that are now in bottle. To recap, Mounir is one of the last Burgundy producers to bottle his wines, since he is a great believer in extended elevage. There is a clutch of outstanding wines in this vintage, particularly at the grand cru level, where one must admire the consistency across the board. As always, readers are reminded that Lucien Le Moine’s wines are made in a stringently reductive method, therefore they always need more decanting time than other growers. Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639

Another showstopper, the 2010 Meursault Genevrieres is uncommonly rich and voluptuous for Genevrieres. Deep, resonant layers of fruit nearly manage to bury the wine's considerable minerality. The 2010 is a totally intense, seamless Meursault with no hard edges and exceptional balance. Today it is almost too rich, but it should be even more compelling in another few years, once some of the baby fat has begun to melt away. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Proprietor Mounir Saouma thinks 2010 is a great vintage and therefore he wanted to push the boundaries as far as possible by slowing down the maturation of the wines. He kept temperatures very low in the cellar to encourage slow, long malolactic fermentations and long elevage in barrel. Among the unusual practices Saouma adopted with the 2010s is stirring the lees a full year after the harvest. At the time of my visit, in July 2012, none of the 2010 whites had been bottled, the only estate in Burgundy I know of that had still not bottled their 2010s. The wines Le Moine 2010s are big, rich and powerful. In many cases, the 2010s appear to have structures that are in the realm of reds. A number of the wines also show slight elements of botrytis that will become more pronounced over time. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot, which was too closed to properly evaluate. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000