Domaine Vincent & Sophie Morey Morgeots, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, France

莫雷酒莊墨璣（夏山-蒙哈榭一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：1798

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots was reduced by 20% because of the frost, and Vincent Morey told me that it is always the first to be picked because of the vigor of the vineyard on deeper soils. It has a modest nose, nicely defined, quite chalky in style if missing the vigor and harmony of their Les Baudines. The palate is better than the nose, with good depth and a smear of clear honey and orange zest that leads to a pert, saline finish that does not outstay its welcome. Fine.

Morey’s 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot shows the richness and weight of this site, but with less power than many other versions. Ripe apricots, peaches, butter and spices take shape in the glass as the Morgeot opens up. The dense, textured finish is brilliant and also quite beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Vincent Morey began harvesting on September 17th. All of the 2010s were bottled before the 2011 harvest. Morey told me he seeks to maintain freshness in his wines, and therefore sees nothing to gain from longer elevage. I also tasted a handful of highly attractive 2011s from barrel. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot captures a striking stylistic middle ground, with expressive aromatics and plenty of fruit, all supported by clean layers of minerality. It shows fabulous harmony and brightness all the way through to the finish. The oak is especially well-balanced. White flowers add the final layers of freshness on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Vincent Morey began harvesting his 2009s on September 10. The wines saw batonnage every two weeks. The malos were very fast, and were completed by January. The wines wre subsequently racked to steel and bottled in August 2010. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel. It is a vintage I like very much here. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Bold, waxy nose of butter, peach, vanilla, guava, kiwi and apple. Rich, savoury palate is accessible but has a firm acid backbone. Exuberant if not yet harmonious. Fine potential.

The V. & S. Morey 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot (in fact from the Boudriotte) shares the hints of caramel and over-ripeness, spice, candied citrus, and honey of so many wines in this collection, along with site-typical jellied red currant. Despite textural creaminess, there is an attractive fresh citrus element supplying vivacity and refreshment here, to which however, once again, the barrel element (including a rather resinous note) and the caramel-side of the wine are not (at least yet) reconciled. Again, too, I’d rather give this the benefit of the doubt and suggest that it might have been having a difficult day when I tasted. There are certainly the raw materials of something impressive here. After inheriting his share of his father, Bernard Morey’s domaine (split with his brother Thomas, on whose wines I have reported separately in this issue), Vincent Morey and his wife Sophie (whose family are wine growers in Santenay) have now combined acreage and produced their first wines out of the Morey family facilities. They began harvesting Chardonnay already at the end of August, achieving potential alcohols that varied by as much as 1.5% over their five days of harvest, and chaptalizing up to a degree to arrive at 13-13.5%. He performed a light clarification and stirred the lees regularly to fatten-up the wines. As a group, this year’s collection was a bit obviously – at times obtrusively – marked by its oak (typically around 30-40% new), and richness seemed sometimes to have been bought at the price of refreshment, clarity, or site-distinctiveness. Like his brother, Vincent Morey reports that he is too short of cellar space to consider a barrel elevage that lasts longer the one year, but he supports the trend toward a longer, watchful stay in tank before the assembled wines are bottled. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191 and also imported by Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802