Jean Paul Brun Fleurie Grille Midi

讓·保爾布朗酒莊干紅迷笛格柵干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：4154

Brun’s tank-rendered 2010 Fleurie Grille-Midi reflects his oldest vines and best parcels in this evocatively-named granite amphitheater. A suggestion of moss adds to the intrigue of floral perfume with fresh blackberry and purple plum that follow on a polished, even subtly creamy yet all the while brightly-fruited and vivacious palate. Beef marrow, nut oils, salt, and berry seed tartness make for a long finish that is as mouthwatering and invigorating as it is rich. Expect half a dozen years of excitement from this beauty. Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

From fruit de-stemmed and subjected to pigeage, the Brun 2009 Fleurie Grille-Midi (last tasted from tank) reflects that amphitheatric granite sector in its sheer concentration and tactile impingement of crystalline minerality rather than in overt ripeness to its black fruits. Almost bitterly palate-staining, with peat, black tea, and fruit pit adding to the wine's palpable sense of stoniness, this is certainly showing its formidable potential even despite a reduction that required serious shaking to dislodge. The wine's eventual shape isn't yet clear, but it also looks likely to be worth following for quite a while once bottled. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191