Brun’s tank-rendered 2010 Fleurie Grille-Midi reflects his oldest vines and best parcels in this evocatively-named granite amphitheater. A suggestion of moss adds to the intrigue of floral perfume with fresh blackberry and purple plum that follow on a polished, even subtly creamy yet all the while brightly-fruited and vivacious palate. Beef marrow, nut oils, salt, and berry seed tartness make for a long finish that is as mouthwatering and invigorating as it is rich. Expect half a dozen years of excitement from this beauty. Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191