From fruit de-stemmed and subjected to pigeage, the Brun 2009 Fleurie Grille-Midi (last tasted from tank) reflects that amphitheatric granite sector in its sheer concentration and tactile impingement of crystalline minerality rather than in overt ripeness to its black fruits. Almost bitterly palate-staining, with peat, black tea, and fruit pit adding to the wine's palpable sense of stoniness, this is certainly showing its formidable potential even despite a reduction that required serious shaking to dislodge. The wine's eventual shape isn't yet clear, but it also looks likely to be worth following for quite a while once bottled. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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