Jean Paul Brun Roussanne

點擊次數：2912

Finally bottled last September after (by local standards) belatedly finishing malo, Brun’s 2010 Roussanne displays a slightly sweet-sour bifurcation, its honeydew and gooseberry reminding me of certain Sauvignons. A suffusion of flower petals, chalk, green herbs and white pepper makes for a striking impression on a texturally polished palate and this finishes with admirable persistence if not a great deal of focus or refreshment. I would certainly plan to drink before 2015 (though I admit to having no experience with older bottles of this cuvee – indeed it hasn’t been around for very long). Veteran Jean-Paul Brun picked most of his crus during the first week in September, and as usual destemmed the entirety of their fruit. (Inexplicably, he failed to bring a bottle of his 2011 Moulin-a-Vent to our meeting – which took place “up north” at Desvigne’s – and I have unfortunately had no subsequent opportunity to catch up with a bottle.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

Always good for some surprises, Brun has vinified in tank and barrel from six year old vines a 2009 Roussanne on whose label the vintage date is written out to evade laws concerning vin de table and (at least in the French version) the worlds -authenticite garantie- are prominently displayed. Honeysuckle, acacia, and toasted nuts in the nose usher in a glossy, expansive palate loaded with persistent floral perfume and pitting a bit of green apple tartness against nut oils and almost liqueur-like ripe melons, with savory saline and subtly chalky notes adding interest to the finish. This should be lots of fun to play around with at table over the next year. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191