Always good for some surprises, Brun has vinified in tank and barrel from six year old vines a 2009 Roussanne on whose label the vintage date is written out to evade laws concerning vin de table and (at least in the French version) the worlds -authenticite garantie- are prominently displayed. Honeysuckle, acacia, and toasted nuts in the nose usher in a glossy, expansive palate loaded with persistent floral perfume and pitting a bit of green apple tartness against nut oils and almost liqueur-like ripe melons, with savory saline and subtly chalky notes adding interest to the finish. This should be lots of fun to play around with at table over the next year. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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