Finally bottled last September after (by local standards) belatedly finishing malo, Brun’s 2010 Roussanne displays a slightly sweet-sour bifurcation, its honeydew and gooseberry reminding me of certain Sauvignons. A suffusion of flower petals, chalk, green herbs and white pepper makes for a striking impression on a texturally polished palate and this finishes with admirable persistence if not a great deal of focus or refreshment. I would certainly plan to drink before 2015 (though I admit to having no experience with older bottles of this cuvee – indeed it hasn’t been around for very long). Veteran Jean-Paul Brun picked most of his crus during the first week in September, and as usual destemmed the entirety of their fruit. (Inexplicably, he failed to bring a bottle of his 2011 Moulin-a-Vent to our meeting – which took place “up north” at Desvigne’s – and I have unfortunately had no subsequent opportunity to catch up with a bottle.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191