Coming from 0.21-hectares of vine between Roger Belland and Fontaine-Gagnard, the oldest of which rooted in 1929, the 2012 Criots- Batard -Montrachet Grand Cru has a wonderful, effervescent bouquet with candied orange peel, apricot blossom and quince that just grows and grows in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. It is more reticent at the moment on the nose, but there is a real undertow of minerals and a show-stopping marine influence on the cerebral finish. Superb – but just one and a half barrels this year.
Jean-Marc Blain poses, somewhat awkwardly, against a metal elevator door upon which is chalked the family tree. Jean-Marc is a quietly spoken, diffident and self-effacing gentleman that has just escorted me through his 2012, which had already bottled. His own branch of the family has viticultural roots, albeit in Sancerre rather than Burgundy. He married Claudine Gagnard in 1980 after meeting at Dijon University and their son Marc-Anthonin, who has been learning the ropes overseas, has joined the husband and wife team. The winery is located in Chassagne, just a few doors down from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard whose door knocked on just a couple of days later. Jean-Marc could not be more different from his niece, Celine Fontaine. Whilst Celine was garrulous, candid and brimmed over with energy, Jean-Marc kept his opinions to himself until requested, letting his wines do the talking. What both domaine’s have in common is that they are both two of the finest Chassagne producers. The domaine has an impressive portfolio of holdings scattered over some of the appellations most propitious premier crus, plus three grand crus including a 0.08-hectare plot of Montrachet. Even then, it only adds up to 8.17-hectares of vine, so quantities here are small. Jean-March told me that he began the harvest in 17 September. I was struck by the amount of flavor that Jean-Marc crams into his wines. These are not shy or bashful wines, but really come at you with their aromas and flavors in a slightly more classic style compared to Fontaine-Gagnard due to the more conservative use of new oak. His 2012 are suffused with great poise and energy that has successfully been captured thanks to the early bottling. If you have not enjoyed this domaine’s wines than now is time for you to start getting acquainted with these delightful wines.
Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600 and also through Berry Brothers & Rudd and John Armit in the UK.
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