Chateau St.Jean Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, USA

圣·讓珍藏赤霞珠干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：8735

Always aged three years in barrel prior to release, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve has gone into a somewhat dormant stage, but shows loads of extract, none of the vintage’s drama or flamboyance at this point, but a deep purple color and a big, sweet kiss of creosote, blackcurrant and berry fruit. Some licorice and new oak are also present in this wine, which is largely all Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink it over the next 15-20 years.

The full-bodied 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve exhibits aromas of sweet vanillin, blackberries and black currants. Aged 36 months in barrel, this brooding, backward blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Merlot reveals plenty of potential and may merit an even higher rating after several more years in the cellar. It should be drunk over the following 10-15 years. Chateau St. Jean offers some fabulous values in their portfolio, particularly for readers interested in Sauvignon Blanc (which they call Fume Blanc), one of California’s finest Pinot Blancs and their generic Sonoma Chardonnay, which is an absolute steal at $15. There’s also a new entry of Sonoma Coast Chardonnay that’s slightly more expensive. I tasted six Chardonnays from Chateau St. Jean, and, surprisingly, the least expensive cuvees fared better than the higher priced offerings, although none of them are expensive. The red wines, especially those from the 2011 vintage, are somewhat hit or miss, although none miss by too much. Tel. (707) 833-4134

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve comes across as a bit rich and gamey in this vintage. Dark cherries, plums, game, smoke, licorice and graphite burst from the glass. A full-bodied, intense wine, the 2008 is another red that is rough around the edges, at least today. The crop was small in 2008 and that appears to have concentrated both the fruit and the tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. This range from Chateau St. Jean is packed with values. Many of these wines, especially at the entry-level, are made in large enough production to be relatively easy to find. Achieving high quality at this scale is a rare skill. Longtime winemaker Margo Van Staaveren certainly seems to have the magic touch. Tel. (707) 833-4134

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve comes across as very tightly wound. It boasts tons of inner energy and focus, but less in the way of generosity. Dark red fruit, grilled herbs, menthol, spices and licorice power through to the intense finish. Here too, I get the sense that a little less new oak would go a long way in allowing the fruit to be fully expressive. In 2007 the blend includes 2% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a fabulous set of wines from Chateau St. Jean, winemaker Margo Van Staaveren and her team. From top to bottom, these wines deliver tons of value and character. Tel. (707) 833-4134, www.chateaustjean.com

Texture is the name of the game here. We’re talking pure velvet, the way the wine glides over the palate with hardly a wrinkle. Beyond the mouthfeel are flavors so complex, they’re hard to describe. The blend consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, with contributions from Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, and each grape brings its own distinction, as does 100% new oak. It’s approachable now for the softness, and should glide through the next 6–8 years with ease. Expensive, yes, and only 344 cases were produced, but it’s worth the search. ——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 95