The 1994 Pouilly-Fuisse Tradition (300 cases produced each year) is another Batard-Montrachet look-alike, with even fuller body than the 1993 Pouilly-Fuisse Clos de Monsieur Noly, admirable density, striking purity, and an amazing honeyed richness. Underlying this explosion of fruit, glycerin, and high alcohol is an undeniable mineral component. After spitting this wine out, the flavors lingered in my mouth for a full minute. It is a truly astonishing bottle of Pouilly-Fuisse that should drink well for 7-8 years. Given Domaine Valette's performance in both 1993 and 1994, they are a definite candidate for one of my wine producers of the year - and I haven't even tasted the 1995s, which should be even better based on the vintage's raw materials. Can you imagine that?As I have said so many times in the past, the most exciting things happening in Burgundy are not in Chablis or the Cote d'Or, but rather in the vast area north of Lyon called the Maconnais. Although I am unimpressed with the overall quality of this area's small production of red wines, the white wine offerings from the top dozen or so estates continue to exhibit eye-opening quality. I have written about this estate in the past, and these exquisite new releases clearly put Domaine Valette in the Macon/Pouilly-Fuisse superstar category, along with such estates as Domaine de la Bongran, Chateau Fuisse, Olivier Merlin, J.C. Thevenet, Guffens-Heynen, and Domaine J.A. Ferret. It would be easy to mistake these amazing wines as top premiers or grands crus from the Cote d'Or. Readers lucky enough to find and purchase these wines should insert them in a tasting of grand cru white Burgundies - they are that amazing!Kysela Pere et Fils, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Suite W5-12/12A, Winchester, VA 22602; telephone (540) 722-9228 and fax (540) 722-9258
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