Brun's 2009 Beaujolais L'Ancien Vieilles Vignes is once again a model of its appellation, with brightness and lift, tartly refreshing yet ripe cherry and blackberry fruit; and in general a character distinctive to the chalky soils of southern Beaujolais for which his domaine is named. Bittersweet inner-mouth floral perfume; high-toned almond extract and kirsch distillate; and salted, toasted nuts add delicious complexity to a wine that manages to caress as well as invigorate. Enjoy this terrific value over the next couple of years. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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