Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees l'Ancien, Beaujolais, France

特雷斯酒莊古代紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：7645

The latest vintage of Terres Doree’s flagship, 2007 L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes may or may not be labeled “Beaujolais” as well, depending on when you buy it. Due to the volume produced and the regulations of the French quality “watchdogs” three sets of samples of the same wine had to be submitted to the committee of growers who authorize the appellation controllee. The first submission was approved, but the subsequent submissions of exactly the same wine weren’t just refused, they were repeatedly reported to be full of off-aromas. Truth be told, Brun’s conception of “ancient method” Beaujolais is simply not widely shared by the down-trodden majority of Beaujolais growers, and thus he joins the lengthening line of refusnik vignerons who can wear that status as an honor. To paraphrase Churchill: “In the morning, my wine will all be sold, but yours will still be insipid.” And how does this renegade Beaujolais actually taste? Its vivid aromas and flavors of tart fresh cherry are allied to flowers and distilled berries in the nose and a positively chewy sense of fruit skin on the palate. Salty, chalky notes add complexity to the most invigorating and indelible finish you are apt to encounter in any under-$20 red wine.The prevalence of chalky soils in the south of Beaujolais is the principle reason why this area is classified merely as “Beaujolais” rather than “Beaujolais-Villages.” But it is also a reason why Chardonnay can achieve outstanding results here, even if there are few examples (even fewer of which carry the “Beaujolais Blanc” rather than “Bourgogne” appellation). Jean-Paul Brun’s is not just a too little-known treasure of Beaujolais, it is among the handful of consistently finest value Chardonnays on the planet.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191