The 2009 Hermitage blanc (approximately 93% Marsanne and 7% Roussanne) reveals the floral/acacia component of Marsanne intermixed with copious buttery, waxy, honeysuckle notes, a full-bodied, steely mouthfeel, and lots of glycerin and heady richness. It must have around 14.5% alcohol given its high glycerin, yet it possesses attractive elegance from the minerality and old vines from which it is produced. This beauty should be drinkable reasonably early and last for 10-20 years.
The following paragraph is taken from issue #193, but I believe it is so important to understand the Guigal philosophy that I am repeating it verbatim. “As I have written many times before, no one in the wine world is better at ‘raising’ a wine (or as the French call it elevage) than Marcel Guigal, who learned the skills from his father, Etienne. Because everyone tends to focus on vintage conditions and terroir, the importance of a wine’s elevage is often overlooked, but Guigal’s unusually long tank, foudre and small barrel aging regime for all his red wines as well as several of his whites results in an array of remarkable wines time and time again. Even the most challenging vintages, which often taste under-nourished, vegetal and thin in their first year or two of life, tend to take on concentration and character, turning out to be some of the finest wines in many of the most difficult Rhone vintages. Moreover, Guigal’s wines always taste better out of bottle than from barrel, which speaks to his honesty and integrity as well as to his brilliance in deciding how long to age a wine in wood or tank, as well as choosing the perfect moment to bottle it. None of this is as simple as it might sound, and that’s why Marcel Guigal gets my vote as the reigning genius in terms of the upbringing of his wines.” Crozes-Hermitage has become one of the Guigal “go-to” wines for value hunters and he has raised the level of this humble appellation dramatically with his recent efforts. Guigal has become a master of red and white St.-Joseph, producing separate cuvees, all of which are usually stunning. Guigal is the appellation’s largest producer of Condrieu. All of his Condrieus are put through 100% malolactic, with his basic cuvee aged in stainless steel (66%) and small oak barrels (34%). Guigal also excels with white Hermitage. In truly great vintages he also produces a limited cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is a blend of 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne from two of the most renowned sectors for Hermitage, l’Ermite and Les Murets. Along with Michel Chapoutier’s St.-Joseph Les Granits, Guigal’s St.-Joseph Vignes de l’Hospice is the top wine of the appellation. Guigal purchased this 8-acre parcel of steep hillside vines from Grippat. Aged 30 months in 100% new oak, this wine is extraordinary. Guigal claims the soil is reminiscent of Les Bessards Vineyard in Hermitage Over the last decade, Guigal has dramatically increased his vineyard holdings in Hermitage, purchasing the estates of Jean-Louis Grippat as well as the Hermitage holdings of De Vallouit. He now has parcels in such famed vineyards as Le Meal, Les Beaumes, Les Bessards and Dionnieres. Guigal’s basic red Hermitage (which has been made for over five decades) is generally aged for more than three years in small casks, of which about 45% are new. In exceptional vintages, Guigal will cull out a special cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is aged 42 months in 100% new French oak. One thousand cases are usually made from three separate vineyards (40% from Les Bessards, 40% from Les Greffieux and 20% from Les Murets.)
Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
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