The 1994 Hermitage La Sizeranne (lot 6711; 1994 is the last vintage to have multiple bottlings) is a structured, dense, concentrated, full-bodied wine that requires 4-5 years of cellaring. It should keep for 15-20 years. The deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by aromas of flowers and jammy cassis. Sweet, ripe fruit in the attack is followed by tannin and structure. This is an impressive example of Hermitage, but patience is required. Michel Chapoutier is quick to say that 1995 is one of the all-time great vintages for the northern Rhone, and in particular for Chapoutier. He compares it with 1990, 1961, and 1947. He is also quick to see the problems that 1995 presented, and the fact that too many Rhone Valley producers followed the same pattern as in 1994. In the latter vintage, it was essential to harvest early, but in 1995 harvesting early only produced wines that were made from physiologically unripe fruit, with extremely high acidity. Chapoutier's top vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Cote Rotie, and Hermitage were harvested very late - in early October. He claims that in the five years that have passed since the great 1990 vintage, he is a far more talented winemaker as he "knew how to make noise in 1990, but now I know how to make music." Yields were tiny throughout all the estate vineyards, with most of the vineyards coming in under 20 hectoliters per hectare, and some of the top vineyards harvesting under a ton of fruit per acre. All in all, 1995 looks to be a sensational vintage for Chapoutier, with a number of extremely long-lived wines. Moreover, now that the 1994s have had some time in bottle, it can be said that 1994 is also a great vintage for this firm.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 247-7070
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