Chapoutier did extremely well with his northern Rhone vineyards in 1991. The 1990 Hermitage-La Sizeranne, made from yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, has closed up since bottling. The color is a dark purple, and with coaxing, the super-ripe nose of cassis, licorice, minerals, and spices begins to emerge. This full-bodied, massively rich, tannic wine was aged in 60% new oak casks. It is gorgeously pure, with a finish that lasts for more than a minute. Last year I thought it was much more forward than the great Hermitages produced by Chave and Jaboulet. Now I am beginning to have doubts. I suspect this wine needs until the turn of the century to approach maturity. It should last for 25-30 years.
The young Michel Chapoutier continues his quest of cultivating his vineyards in an organic fashion, and turning out wines that reflect the soil, the grape, and the vintage. These concentrated (because of low yields) wines are made with minimal intervention by the winemaker.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.