A tried-and-true classic to set aside for your next baked cod or striped bass, the 2019 Alto Adige Valle Isarco Riesling Praepositus offers light layers of tropical fruit with varietal tones of petroleum and flinty stone at the back. There is also some very subtle sweetness at the back with peach and lemon. In fact, the wine seems a year or two older than it is, with faint hints of that classic Riesling evolutionary trajectory. It has taken a proud step forward in time.