The Lecheneauts' 2006 Clos De La Roche offers a level of intrigue surpassing that of their other 2006s, beginning with a literally rather sinister blend of peat, wet stone, and dark berries, tinged with mace, vanilla, and toasted coconut. Broad and plush on the palate, this finishes with a reverberating interchange of fruits, earthy elements, spice, and emerging notes of game, incorporating just enough sense of juicy fresh fruit to remain invigorating. As with the Pruliers, there is a touch of heat despite the alcohol level being only a bit over 13%, and time will tell whether whatever combination of extract and raw materials in general it is that's required to overcome or over-ride this is present here. But in any case I would expect this to be worth following for the better part of a decade.
Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut report having ended up with higher potential alcohol in their 2006 fruit than in 2005 – though not, they hasten to add, equally ripe flavors – and having accordingly performed scarcely any chaptalization, so that only a few of the wines finished at over 13%. The regimen of new wood was essentially unchanged from 2005, which I think worked to the disadvantage of a number of these 2006s, wines that – while very well made, and in some instances distinguished – suffer considerably by comparison with their immediate predecessors.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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