The Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts has a mouth-watering nose of super-ripe pears and apples. This dense, oily-textured, and fat wine has traces of sur-maturite in its otherwise bright, spicy, and almond cookie-flavored character. It is medium-to-full-bodied, thick, surprisingly well-balanced, and offers an impressive finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; (212) 490-9300.