The sophomore 2011 Nuits-St-Georges Poisets was purchased by a consortium of five friends of Laurent Lignier in February 2010. What attracted them is a plot of vines planted just after the war that yield small, often millerande berries. The bouquet is very pure with a lifted bouquet of dark cherries and a touch of yellow plum, hints of chalk developing just behind. The palate is medium-bodied with a tannic entry. This is a masculine Nuits-St-Georges that is powerful in the mouth, but well-balanced and endowed with a surfeit of freshness on the finish. But it needs three or four years to lose its nascent rusticity. Drink 2016-2023.
Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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