Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune les Aigrots

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Cassis and dark cherry in the nose of the Lafarge 2007 Beaune Les Aigrots adumbrate juicy, forward fruit on the palate that contrasts in its sweetness to the tart impression of the also excellent 2008. But then, 2007 is a vintage in which a high-elevation site like Aigrots could benefit, and in which tartness of fruit is relatively rare. This suggests creaminess of texture, which further underscores the contrast and counterpoint with chalky, saline mineral and cyanic cherry pit finishing notes. Follow it for 7-9 years, and let it sit out the next 3-4. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are understandably enthusiastic about their admittedly millerandage-, hail-, and triage-reduced 2008 crop, but insisted that rot was not a significant problem. And even the hail, they report, was minimal in their portions of Clos des Chenes and Caillerets, being largely confined to certain village and generic sectors. All of the 2008s here (even of minor appellation) were still in barrel when I tasted them in March, and would, as usual at this address, be assembled only immediately before bottling. Malos were late here by the estate’s normal standards, but still largely finished by August, and the Lafarges insist that they did not have musts with unusually high levels of malic acidity, in regard to which Frederic observes that a matter of just a few days in picking date in 2008 could make a big chemical difference. Michel Lafarge opines that one needs several months after malo to let a young red Burgundy collect and express itself before one ought even to contemplate bottling, in light of which he cannot comprehend – much less agree with – the many growers who bottled 2008s during the winter. He also emphatically resists the suggestion that 2008 is, in any sense, a throwback to the old normalcy – a subject on which Michel Lafarge has to be one of Burgundy’s most seasoned experts – pointing out that there wasn’t really any need to chaptalize the 2008s, which came in largely in the upper 12s. (Alcohol levels were slightly higher in the impressive 2007s, nearly all of which were picked the first week in September.)A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70