Jean Paul Brun Fleurie

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Brun’s tank-raised 2010 Fleurie – from the Grille-Midi sector, although he confines the use of that name on the label to his cuvee from older vines and better parcels – leads with sour cherry and purple plum wreathed in iris and peony. Its crunchy fruit counterpoised with beef marrow and nut oil richness on a fine-grained palate, this finishes with saliva-stimulating persistence, citrus zest and salt adding to its sense of irresistible invigoration. Look for at least 3-4 years of mental and sensual stimulation. Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191