Brun's 2009 Fleurie - based on purchased fruit - displays remarkable depth and intrigue of mineral and animal nuances to accompany its pristine evocation of diverse, ripe black fruits. Roasted meats, smoked meats, marrow, stone, and mineral salts; black tea and peat make for riveting complexity in a wine that is dense yet buoyant, richly-fruited yet vivacious, and positively vibratory in finish. This stupendous value should hold up well for at least 5-6 years - not that one would want to miss out on it in its glorious youth. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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