Needing more patience, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Papet (75% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and the balance Syrah aged in foudre) comes from the estate’s oldest vines planted in such famous sites as Mont Olivet and Bois Dauphin. Usually about 1,000 cases are produced and the 2009, which tops the scales at 15.5% alcohol, is brilliant. A gorgeously aromatic bouquet of dark fruits, kirsch, underbrush, raspberries, licorice, spice box and pepper soars from the glass of this dark ruby/purple-tinged wine. Opulent and voluptuously textured with moderate tannins, and a broad, fleshy mouthfeel, it has 15 years of evolution ahead of it. Nevertheless, it is very accessible and upfront now.
The Sabon family that owns Clos du Mont Olivet was one of the first to estate bottle Chateauneuf du Pape over 80 years ago. This is a highly respected source of traditional wines that age wonderfully. The family’s habit of bottling as they sold the wine has been abandoned, and the result is far more consistent offerings than existed 15 or 20 years ago. The 2009s are beautiful wines, but the 2010s will ultimately eclipse them. Both vintages merit serious interest.
Various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysus Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Ideal Wines and Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; tel. (651) 487-1212; and Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622
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